The simple solution is to DISCONECT the start batt and run the engine from the house bank via jump leads untill you can repair the fault. Starter motors take very little power (about 1.5a/h per min) but need a good battery that will hold a voltage under starter loads to get the engine turning fast enough. If you connect your good battery to a dead one to start the engine you finish up with 2 dead batteries very fast as the the dud shorts out the good one. The only problem with all these is that none of them tend to work in an emergency unless your domestic bank is so big it practically ignores the starter batt, even jump leads will fail if your engine batt has a short. Please don't get a 1-2-Both switch - they should have no place on a boat these days. If you do it this way, you'll avoid losing charge from the domestics into a flat starter battery.
Then, if you need to start using the domestic batteries, turn off the starter battery switch, remove the handle, put it in the emergency switch and turn it on, thus connecting the domestic batteries directly to the starter circuit. If you got an identical switch, and if the isolator switches have removeable handles, take the handle out of the new emergency switch and put it in a safe place.
You also need to ensure that the negative return to the domestic batteries is equally heavy cable. Connect it from the positive of the domestic batteries to the starter side of the existing starter battery isolator switch.ĭepending on how far away the domestic batteries are, you might need to use heavier cable than you currently have on your starter circuit. This will be your emergency combining switch.
Marine battery isolator switch wiring install#
In that case, my preference would be to install a third isolator switch of the same type as your current starter battery isolator switch. I have 2 separate isolators but am considering a combined switch
0 kommentar(er)
